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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.